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NemVia 

Welcome! My Site features step by step intructions on how to build from Scratch and/or Kit models of Science fiction and other projects. Be the first to see the latest updates by becoming a member of my site. Join NOW! It's Free~!

JULY UPDATES - 2019

Hey Everyone! Thanks for stopping buy for the latest updates on the DeLorean build. I have 30 new pics for you to check out. This month the components were very easy to add to the interior section of the car. There are a few things in this car that I never knew where in there including a couple of speakers that fit behind the seats. Unfortunately, they don't function, otherwise I'd be cranking a cassette tape of Edward Van Halen music whilst doing this project. There are a few more "Live wires" that are now in this build and I've also added the main circuit board to the passenger side bulkhead piece. This assembly was very quick. The wires are all pre-numbered and they all plug into corresponding numbers on the circuit board. I was also able to plug into the board some of the components from the dash board. If they really work, I don't know as of yet. At least not until I can power this baby up. But it's starting to come together little by little.  Best of all the Flux Capacitor box assembly was included with issue 58.

So, as of July 25 it will be 1 year since I began posting this build on my site. The time has seemed to fly by very fast. I wish that darned capacitor would work so I can move into the future to see this thing done though. Oh, well. I can't afford the Plutonium or a real Mr. Fusion anyway. I'll just have to wait. To kind of celebrate all that's been accomplished with this build I've posted the article below with the 14 progress pics, including this months pic and a small review of the build and it's components over the last year. Hope you enjoy seeing everything come together. Keep checking for updates and we'll see you in the "FUTURE"!

Mark

1/8 Back To The Future DeLorean Build - The First Year - Issues 1 - 58   Build Review

To review, The Back To The Future DeLorean is a car that has always intrigued me and I recall the smaller all plastic model with instant hover mode which was availible with the sliding of a lever located underneath the car's chassis. A good friend of mine began building this version of the car but never kept up with it, so he passed it on to me. However, the model fell into oblivion at some point never to be seen again. Just last year, I received an advertisement to build this car again in 1/8 scale on a subscription bases. I've never tried building anything like this before, but a highly detailed version of the car was irresistible to me so I began the subscription. At first what I received with Issues 1 - 6 did not seem very impressive, but I began what will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5 years to build this awesome vehicle with working lighting effects and many other details that make this build a wonderful experience. On July 25, 2018 I posted my first pictures of my Back to the future DeLorean Build. This is a review of all of the 13 Overall Progress Pictures so you can see what was entailed in this thrilling model. The first picture is from Issues 1 - 6. All that was received was the driver's side front fender panel which was made out of metal,  one of the wheel assemblies, the front end suspension assemblies the top and bottom rear bumper assemblies, the "Plutonium" Chamber and the Mr. Fusion assemblies. These Issues were extremely easy to assemble


Issues 7 - 10 where also very easy to put together. The chassis frame was made from metal which gives the model quite a bit of strength. I also received the second front wheel assembly and the anti-roll assembly as well as the steering mechanisms. What I've really enjoyed about this build is that everything is pre-painted to the appropriate color. All you have to do is assembly each issue as instructed. Some minor issues are that most of the metal parts are not pre threaded and the screws don't appear to be self threading. When putting this kit together you do need a solid Phillips screwdriver that can torque the mounting screws all the way in, otherwise there will be some wiggle with some of the assembled parts. 

Issues 11- 14 include the engine support brackets some base panels and connecting rods as well as the two rear disc brake assemblies the left rear wheel assembly with springs and shock absorbers, left and right radius arms and the two track rods. Very easy assemblies for these 4 Issues. This pic shows the wheels in hover mode.

Issues 15- 18 Include the right rear wheel assembly. It also includes the beginnings of the transmission as well as the pieces for the bottom of the engine assembly which includes the transmission case housing the engine bottom with sump pan and the starter assembly, the left and right sides of the engine, engine backing,  manifolds   oil and fuel filters. The engine block is made entirely of metal except for some of the add-ons. This assembly does require that you torque down on some of the screws otherwise the pieces will rattle a bit. Another thing to add into the seams is some hot glue or some other form of caulking to block out any holes that might be visible.

Issues 19 - 22 include the engine top water pump and hoses, The air intake and manifolds, The cylinder head covers a/c compressor assembly and mounting brackets, Oil filler cap, a/c compressor connector, intake manifolds, fuel injectors throttle control assembly and injector hoses. These four Issues have a lot of tiny detailing work to be done. For most of this assembly I used some locking tweezers  to hold some of the pieces steady while adding them onto the engine. The hoses for the injectors were a bit of trouble, but once I got them on they were okay. A small bead of hot glue can help out a lot, too.

Issues 23- 26 include the distributor assembly, the oil dipstick, which you should cement in place. It has the tendency to pop off if you accidently bump the engine assembly. Also you get the pulleys for the alternator, water pump and A/C compressor as well as the drive belts for each of them. You also get some mounting brackets and two of the exhaust pipes, the muffler or silencer, other connectors and 2 rubber boots for the track rods. Most of these pieces are very easy to assemble. After these assemblies are complete the engine is mounted onto the frame and then you are pretty much finished with the engine assembly from this point forward. At one point I was going to weather the engine up a bit, but this kind of fell by the wayside as I realized that most of the engine won't be seen after everything is finished. I might do some light weathering to it later on after I get farther along on the build. At least to dull the engine down a bit. But, I thing the engine looks pretty sharp the way it is.

Issues 27 - 30  have parts for the radiator backing with fan blades mounting brackets and horn, the radiator grill, front and back with mounting frame which is a very quick assembly. Then you finally get to add the bottom chassis plate which will hold the floor of the interior. You also get all of the water pipes that run from the radiator assembly back to the engine. Some of these pieces are bent in such a way that it takes a bit of fishing them through the engine framework to get them into place. These run mainly underneath the chassis so you can't see them in this update picture.

Issues 31 - 34 start the process of sealing the chassis in from the outside you get the rear chassis plates the fuel tank which holds the batteries to power the future electronics that will go into the car. You also get the fuel tank cover which holds the batter cover in place as well. The last and largest piece of these issues is the upper front chassis cover and the reservoir for the washer fluid. Very quick assembly time because the parts a very large and easy to work with.

Issues 35 - 38  have some very easy things to add onto the car as well. You get the front wheel wells, the right and left pontoons with mounting brackets, the rear wheel wells and finally some of the first bits of wiring for the electronic effects for the car. They also give you some brackets to allow the car to rest on while in hover mode. I don't know if I'll use them, because I think they are a little too short. I might make some of my own to hold the car up a little higher to make it appear to be floating above the display stand. 

Issues 39 - 42 finally allow you to start working on the interior of the car. You get the floorboard along with some more wiring for the electronics which assembles together in no time at all. You also get the firewall with gas pedal, clutch and working brake with a lighting switch for the brake lights. The other two pedals are static and don't move. Then you get to work on the center console which includes highly detailed A/C  heat and fan dials, gear stick with rubber shroud which allows the shift to move around a bit and also the beginnings of the time display box. This includes the time circuit keypad,  stereo, heat sink and compass which when assembled looks pretty amazing.

There are also some electronics to install for the lighting effects of the time circuit display. The wiring runs underneath the center console.

Issues 43 - 46 include more wiring for the switch button board, the time circuit activator with         Y-handle  as well as a power supply box and various other buttons. This wiring is also fed under the center of the console. Next is the dashboard and shelves for the odometer display and other dials seen on the passenger side of the dashboard. You also get the LED lighting panels for each of the dashboard displays. Very quick assembly on these issues as well.

Issues 47 - 50 Start you off with the steering console, with steering column and levers for turn signals and wipers that actually move. The steering wheel itself Is made from metal. Next comes the most time consuming Issue of the kit thus far. You are supplied with a lot of GNDN or dummy wires which make the DeLorean look like its just packed with electronics and power cables. The hard part is straightening all of these wires out and to make them bend where you want them to go. It can be done but you need a lot of TLC for this to happen. I even split one of the wires by accident when trying to contour it to the dashboard. Fortunately where it split was in an area that will not bee seen. You have to feed some of these wires into relay boxes and power units and then secure them to the dash. The only thing I really didn't like about this part is the zip-ties are way out of scale. I'm currently looking for smaller ones, which I have seen inside some electrical units like stereos and dvd players. These are micro ties that are way more accurate in scale. As soon as I can get a hold of them, I'll cut the old ones off and put those on instead. You also get some heavy duty power cables and the connector part of the seat-belts and finally the driver's side seat which is made of a soft, leather-like material. It contains a metal framework along with padding for cushions. I think I was able to put this together in less than 5 minutes. It even can lean and pull forward to get to  whatever electronics and wiring are behind the seat. Very cool feature. 

Issues 51 - 54 start off with the passenger side seat assembly and again was put together in less than five minutes. In fact, I don't even think I used the assembly instructions. It's that easy. But, with the rest of the issues you get the left and right door sills as well as the hand brake and more cabling and zip ties. There is also a huge pipe that runs from the dash on the passenger side to the soon to be added rear bulkhead panel. This will also contain some short piping elbows as well as what looks to be like a compression cylinder will be added to this bulkhead piece which fits behind the driver and passenger seats. There is also a small junction box for more wires So there's more bending to do, but not quite so tedious as the dash wiring.

And finally Issues 55 - 58. There are two, what look to be like 12" audio speaker that go behind the two seats. There is also a bulkhead hatch which is behind the passenger side seat which holds what seems to be the main circuit board for all of the lighting effects on the entire car. Most of the wiring that was fed from the dash through the center console is connected to this board. After this is in place, the upper bulkhead and it's details can be assembled which include the light board and other panels, some socket boards for the larger cable connections as well the Flux capacitor box and LED wiring and  also some piping that will connect to the Flux capacitor box.  So, this a year and a half's worth of work putting together 58 Issues to this point. At Issue 65 I will be at the half-way point of this build so there is a lot more to come. There are over 870 pieces assembled together so far and this includes all of the fastening screws for the components. I really enjoy this build and I do think it's worth the expense for all of the issues. I've had very little problems with any of the components and the ones I did have trouble with Eaglemoss  promptly replaced the missing or defective parts. So here's to another year and a half or so of building this awesome car and I hope that everyone will continue to visit my website to see the 72 Issues that I will be adding to this amazing replica of the Back To The Future DeLorean Time Machine. See you in the future and thanks for visiting.


Mark

JUNE UPDATES - 2019


Hey everyone. I just received my next four issues (51-54) on Friday. Very quick and easy issues to do. I've been able to install the passenger seat as well as more GNDN wiring.  And finally the rear bulkhead plate that goes in behind the seats. Also I've added the left and right side door sills that kind of make the seating area look more like it belongs in a real car. Nothing overly spectacular for this update, but the interior is getting closer to being finished. Looking at the test fitting of the interior with the car frame, I can see that even though this is a pretty big model car at 1/8 scale, the real life one looks extremely cramped even without all the time circuit details. I've never seen one in person, but this certainly tells me I don't think I'd ever really want one. Unless of course some generous individual gave me one as a gift.... (NOT) Anyway, there are 22 new pics in the "!/8 Scale BTTF DeLorean" page


Next month I will have a 1 year review of this build to date to see how far I've gotten over a twelve month span on this one model. In about 3 month I will be at the half-way point of this build. Hope this is still holding everyone's interest. Well, That's it for now. More coming soon. See you then.

Mark

  

MAY UPDATES -2019 (part ll)


I know this is a rare occasion, but I was able to receive my next 4 issues of the DeLorean build within' the same month. I really liked these issues, especially Issue 48. Issue 48 had a little bit more work to do on it and it dealt mainly with the dashboard component wiring. All of these cables are of the GNDN variety and used for aesthetics purposes only. But, to adjust them and get them into their proper places was what took up most of the time. (well, that and I misread the instructions for the wire separator piece and threaded them through it upside down.....DOH) Oh, we'll anyway it was fun doing this part of the build. All of the cables needed to be threaded through the bottom of the dash into the trunk space area only to be secured there permanently later on. I've actually found a couple things that I do not like with this part of the build, though. One is that the cable ties or zip ties are way out of scale with the care. I do however plan to replace them with some smaller ones that are used for stereo electronics which are much smaller and a little more accurate. Also, I was very disappointed in the function of the steering wheel and steering column. I had hoped they would turn the front wheels a little farther than they do. Now I understand why they give you the mounting blocks for the display stand so that the wheels will turn a bit more with less effort. But, I don't think it's going to be too big of an issue since the car will mostly be displayed in a case. Anyway, I was also able to build one of the cars seats, driver's side to be exact. I like how the material feels, almost like real leather, and they give you foam to place underneath the seat cushions to make the seat covers feel soft just like you could sit on them for real. I think I will be weathering the seats a bit. Just looking at how much stuff was added to the car by "Doc Brown" would suggest a lot of wear on just about everything on the inside of the car. That's why I'm leaving any scuffs and scratches  that I might make on the car for that lived in feel. So far I've built issues 1 - 50 for this kit and the car now weighs in at 7.5 lbs (3.4 kg) I didn't know it was going to be this heavy. I can't imagine what it will weigh when finished. Well, that's it for now. Keep checking for the next update.

Thanks, Mark

MAY UPDATES - 2019


Hey Everyone, sorry about the delay in the updates. I've had the pics loaded onto my website, I just haven't got around to adding the titles and captions until today. Well, most of the Issues concentrated on the dashboard assembly which includes the driver's side gages you speedometer, tach, fuel, etc. Also the passenger side indicators along with the lighting LED boards and their wiring components. Even the  88 mph speed gage is included. I can't wait to see all of this stuff lit up and working. Another part of this month's assembly includes the time circuit assembly, with power box and also the 6 push buttons that are on the passenger side of the center console. The detailing is pretty nice looking. Although I haven't secured these items onto the chassis, I was able to do a test fitting and take some pretty nice pics of what I have assembled so far. Check 'em out. there are 23 new pics starting with issue 43 which is slide no. 224 on the 4th page of the "1/8 scale BTTF DeLorean" page. Hope you enjoy them. I just received word that my next 4 issues have been mailed out, so I'm looking forward to starting on those. Issue 47 deals with the steering assembly. That's it for this month's update. Check back here in June.

Mark



 

APRIL UPDATES - 2019


Just to let everyone know, our website URL has been changed to www.NemVia.org  and the website is now simply known as NemVia. Without realizing it I let the .net expire. It was just easier to move everything to .org.


As for the DeLorean build, I've added 22 new pics to the "1/8 scale BTTF DeLorean"  page. A lot of the build this month focused on the time circuit display and adding some more wiring for the lighting effects such as the brake lights, front and rear tail lights  and turn signal blinkers.  The brake pedal actually moves and has a spring to pull the pedal back in place. The center console also  the gear shift handle which also moves and comes with a rubber shroud similar to a real shift shroud. The climate control details are very awesome, although I really doubt you'll be able to see them when the time circuits are all in place. The keypad is now in place as well as the stereo with cassette player details and controls as well as the compass.  I'm really looking forward to the upcoming issues. Issue 43 looks to have more of the time circuit wiring along with the start of the beginnings of the Flux Capacitor assembly. Pretty "Heavy" Stuff. Once again, the details are just awesome on this build. She's starting to look more and more like a car. Can't wait.


In other updates, I have to rework some of the wiring on the Drydock model. There was a short in one of the circuits that I had to first locate where it was  now I'm in the process of repairing it. This unfortunately meant pulling apart some of the assembly. This can be a nightmare mainly because the two models are wired together to function as one model. It might have been better to just build the dock and the ship to be separate. But, then I'd loose the floating effect of the ship in the dock. So, sorry for the delays with the updates on the dock. I should be back on track with it soon. I've even had some suggestions from other modelers as to what fly-by shots they would like to see when I'm finished. If anyone else has suggestions, let me know. I'll try any doable shot. That's it for this month. See you next update.

Mark

MARCH UPDATES - 2019

Greetings Fellow Modelers.

Just got back from 2 weeks vacation in a place that was nice and warm. Had to take a break from this awful cold weather in the Midwest. So, now after some recharging of the batteries from a good rest, I can deal with life again for a little while.

This month's update is a bonus update. Before I went on VACA, I received Issues 31 - 34 and assembled them, photographed them and then all I needed to do was edit them when I came back from our trip. At the beginning of the month, or on March 6th, I received Issues 35 - 38. So you can see the updates for 8 of the Issues this month. Also, the box I received for my shipment was unusually large this time and I couldn't really figure out why at first. But, then I checked my billing manifest and found that the 3rd and final "FREE" gift was included with this delivery which I forgot about. Eaglemoss sent me the Display Base for the DeLorean. It looks pretty sharp. Measures 27" x 14" x 1.5" and has a mirrored surface to display the underneath of the car and a BACK TO THE FUTURE display plate on the front.  Issue 38 came with 4 mounting brackets for the car to sit on, but they don't hold the car high enough for hover mode. Maybe they're will be 4 more coming in the future that are a little higher up. Whish I had a Flux Capacitor so I could find out.....  Hah... Anyway, I was also surprised that the front and rear wheel wells were metal pieces instead of plastic.  The only Issue I had with these concerned the rear wheel wells. I found that in order to get them screwed in place I needed to first screw in the front part of the wells to the Chassis, then put the 2nd and 3rd screws in until they were flush with the Chassis. The "suspension" parts kind of hold the wheel wheels up and away from the frame. IF you try to put the screws in from back to front it's a little more difficult. Just letting anyone whose building this kit  know how to get these parts in place.  With these 8 Issues, some of the wiring has arrived along with the Battery Box and lid which are cleverly and appropriately hidden in the "fuel" tank. It looks like in the next Issue (39) some more wiring items will be arriving. I'm looking forward to it. There are 43 "New" pics in the "1/8 Scale BTTF DeLorean" page, starting on page 3 and slide number 158. For a view of the Display base, go to the bottom of page 3. As always, comments are welcome. See you next Month.

Mark

FEBRUARY UPDATES  -  2019


Hi everyone, this is the DeLorean Build update for February. I've received issues 27 - 30 and they are incredibly simple to assemble, just minimum work to do. The main focus was on the Chassis plate and the radiator and water pipe assemblies. Adding the plate to the car has really increased the total weight of the model, as the plate is made from metal. It now weighs in at 5.3lbs or 2392g.  I could almost do some body building with this kit. Anyway, everything is fitting together nicely. I did have to make an adjustment to the two water pipes or hoses that connect to the engine. They are black radiator hoses the are made from a very stiff plastic, so there was very little give in them to make then fit properly. I wound up sanding down the side of the hose that faces the engine. When I did get it to fit you don't even notice it was filed down. I don't have pics yet of the weathering of the engine parts because I wanted to wait until all of this was assembled before I did anything. Hopefully, this will add a touch of the "used"  look to the overall time machine. There are 20 new progress pics on the "1/8 scale BTTF DeLorean" starting on page 3 of the photo album, pics 137 - 157. Let me know what you think!  The next 4 Issues are already being processed, so I'm looking forward to that as well. See you next month, happy modeling.

Mark


In other update news I've run into a bit of a snag with the wiring of the drydock, so I've had to re do a few things, but I will have some update pics coming soon. So, stay tuned for that as well. Also, I just became a GRANDFATHER for the 9th time. So happy days for that! Take care and we'll talk with you soon!

JANUARY UPDATES - 2019

WOW! Already the beginning of a new year. December flew by and I'm glad it did. It's good to get back to work on something I would really rather be doing anyway. 

I received issues 23 - 26 for the DeLorean build. For the most part it is finishing up the engine assembly and getting it mounted onto the car frame. It looks real good assembled. I just have to dirt the engine up a little, by adding some weathering and usage stains to the manifolds, oil pan and transmission areas. The engine looks awesome, but it's a little to pristine! Anyway,  I've posted 25 new pics on the 1/8 scale BTTF DeLorean page. Just click on the page and look at new updates starting at pic 111 - 136. Hope you enjoy the pics.


I've also been working on the drydock a bit as time allows for the wiring, but I should have some update pics on that project as well coming soon! Looking forward to next month's updates. Everyone have a good month! See you then,

Mark.



NOVEMBER/DECEMBER UPDATES - 2018

Sorry about the delay in the update. The weather and work have been nearly impossible this whole last month. A quick update for my website, though: For those visitors who check for updates on their cell phones and tablets, I was able to get the issue of viewing the pictures on my website resolved. I have received several complaints about visitors not being able to view the pictures on my site. It seems there was a software issue that has now been updated, so you should be able to visit my site without any further issues. I've tried it on my own phone and now I don't have any problems seeing any of the pics. Thanks to all for letting me know about this issue! Hopefully everything is fixed.


My only update for Nov/Dec is for the DeLorean Build. I have over 50 new pics on the 1/8 BTTF DeLorean page. The assembly  goes very fast with each of the Issues received. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes per issue so I can do a few things every few days if I need to. This is a really enjoyable build. Currently I'm working on the building of the Engine. The details are just phenomenal. Please check out the pics. Drop a few comments if you can.

As many of you know, those who have followed my builds over the years, December is a very low model building month for me so I will probably not be able to get much of anything done until early next year. The drydock has been on hold now for a while jus because of my job. But hopefully things will taper down by the 1st week of January and I can get back into the swing of things. Please be safe during this time of the year and I will see you in 2019.

Thanks everyone!

~Mark~




SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Updates - 2018
Hi Everyone! I didn't forget about you. I've been working my tail off at my secular job. A Lot of changes being made that interfere with my projects BIG TIme. Hopefully it will calm down a bit over the next few weeks. I will have some update pics for the drydock in a few weeks. I'm getting the pics ready now. Mainly working on the switchboard faceplate along with the trim work needed for the model base. Then of course there is a lot of wiring to be finished up, So hang in there. It's coming soon.

For my DeLorean build, I had to hold off on that for about a month because my ISSUE 10 had some missing parts. The different size fixing screws are all labeled with letters like DM which represent the screw size needed to mount some of the parts together or to the main frame of the car. Well, instead of sending me the screws labeled DM, I received to packets of AP screws which a smaller than the DM screws so I could not finish some of the build. O got on the phone with Eaglemoss right away and told them what the problem was and without question or charge they sent me another issue 10! This was awesome. I only needed the screws but they sent me a Whole new Issue. I couldn't believe it! No problems!  Great people to work with. So if anyone needs a new Issue 10 minus the DM screws for whatever reason let me know.

Anyway, instead of just the September update with issues 6 - 9, I am also adding Octobers update with Issues 10 - 14. Little by little the car is taking shape. I have 37 new pics of the parts and assembly of issues 6 -14 on the 1/8 Scale DeLorean Build page for this month! Check it out and I'll see you next month.
Mark

1/8 Scale DeLorean - August 2018 -Update

To break up doing some of the work on drydock building, I've started a secondary project which only takes, so far, a few minutes each month. I've received my first 6 issues for this build out of 130. The scale is 1/8 as stated, but the details are magnificent. Everything is pre painted or colored so there is a minimum of work to be done. I might add some weathering to it later on, but we'll see how things go. I haven't been able to put this build on the home page as of yet due to some technical issues with this sight hopefully soon to be remedied. To see the pics go to the Member's Photo Gallery on the pull down menu and take a look. There are 23 new pics of both the instruction booklets as well as the parts and the assembled products. This is a nice change of pace after working very hard on the Dock which is still continuing. New updates for that will be posted around September 1. That's it for the DeLorean Update for this month. Keep checking for new updates. Thanks,

 Mark

AUGUST UPDATES - 2018

Wiring, Wiring, WIRING!  Yes, that's pretty much all that I've been doing this last month. Wiring and double checking the circuits to make sure they're working. I've had to do this because there were so many loose wired from both the Enterprise and the Dock that I needed to start getting these out of the way so I can do more wiring and lighting. Really there are only a few more effects that need to be added and then I can start working on the display stand switches and trim work. Besides the wiring I've sealed the open hanger on the aft end of the dock. The ceiling is now permenetly cemented to the structure. I will be adding a mirror to the back end of the hanger to give the appearance that the Hanger goes much farther back into the modules than it actually does. She's coming together. Please hang in there. See you next month.

Mark


JULY UPDATES - 2018 - Supplemental

While I still have a lot of work to finish up on the Drydock, I found a side project I can work on just to break up some of the monotony of working on the Dock. Through FineScale Modeler I have begun a subscription to build Doc Brown's DeLorean Time Machine from Back To The Future. The first 2 Issues have already come in and I have them posted in the Member's Gallery. What I like about this so far is that there is very minimal work with the assembly of this model. The only thing I've had to do so far is open up a couple of holes in the metal pieces to allow the detailing to fit better. Other than that, all  I've needed to do is screw the parts together and add a few decals. Very Easy. My next 4 issues should be coming soon and I will post them under the same Album in the Members Gallery Page. Stay tuned for more.

 

JULY UPDATES - 2018

Back on track for this month! I was able to Finish off the top of the display base by tacking down the Velvet material so that is now set. I can now prepare to add the trim and begin work on the lighting controls. In This month's update I have made some lighting test shots of the light panels and mark lighting. But first I had to square off the frame of the drydock. This needed to be done because the added weight of the Enterprise was causing one side of the dock to sag. So I had to level off the top of the dock by adding a cable and a turnbuckle to help even things out. This also allowed me to make the side panels square with the rest of the dock.. Next I have to do some tweaking of the individual panels to make sure they are all straight. I am now running all of the ships wiring down the back of the support frame to the switch board which will control certain lighting effects on both the ship and the dock. The new pics are posted on the July Updates - 2018 page. The lighting test shots came out pretty good. Check 'em out and I'll see you on the next update.

Mark

JUNE UPDATES - 2018


My Apologies everyone, Mom passed away in March so My Wife and I have been busy taking care of the related matters. But everything has calmed down now so I was able to start up again on the drydock.

I left off on adding the Black velvet to the display base of the model. I was able to finish this plus add some support screws for the light panel frame assembly. These will help keep the frames from swaying and sagging. With the Enterprise touched up I was able to add it permanently to the dock. The ship is now locked into place with two screws. The ship is now free floating inside the structure. I also began running all of the wiring from the ship up the through the armature structure. As soon as I add the travel pod docking pod to the outside of the dock I can then seal up the armature arm and paint it to look like the rest of the dock. Now comes the painful part of the assembly where I have to add the port side panel frame assembly. In order to make it fit around the armature support arm I had to cut into two of the panel frames. This unfortunately weakens the structure a bit until I can re-support the frames so they won't sag. I also had to secure all of the frames to the overhead modules via some lock-nuts screws and dome nuts. It took a while to adjust everything together, but now the Enterprise is completely surrounded by the dock. Next I will be testing all of the wiring to make sure everything lights up. I've also taken all of the work-cranes and lights out and will soon be adding them to the structure. Then of course they all have to be wired in. I have 6 new pics in the June Updates - 2018 page. Don't be alarmed if the panels do not appear strait. I still have to tweak the support frames but at least you'll be able to see a little bit of progress. That's it for this update and it's good to be back. See you soon!

Mark



March and April Updates were on hold due to my mom's passing. For those who are interested I posted a video.


https://youtu.be/35kiJH7XmvA

February Updates - 2018

Hi Everyone! This months updates are pretty good. First I have started to add the Black Velvet Material to the Base of the model. This will help make the model appear to floating over the base. The panel frames will be supported by two screws on each side of the frames to hold the structure up and help keep it level. This is also a very good sign because it means that I will soon be adding the Enterprise permanently into the drydock, then adding the port side panel frame assembly into place. I've added all of the wiring and some new lighting to the rear hanger bay on the dock by using the LED light strips. They have some interesting details on the strips that would make the lights appear to be a natural fixture on the dock. I will also be replacing the lightings on all the other hanger on the dock as well. It just looks better. 
On the Enterprise I was originally going to use magnets to hold the two saucer halves together, but because the pieces don't line up very well, I've decided to permanently seal up the saucer. The LEDs should last quite a long time and even if there were a problem it would be impossible to work on the Enterprise in the dock unless I take the whole port side off of the dock and remove the ship. That Ain't gonna happen. In cementing the saucer together, I've found a lot of other gaps that needed to be fixed or repaired. The bottom impulse engine does not meet up with the saucer, so I had to use some styrene and putty to fix that problem. Also, the collar of the Dorsal was not molded very well so I had to replace that as well and then putty, sand and repaint all of these areas. Where the pylons meet the secondary hull there was a gap at that point, so I've puttied that as well on both pylons. The reason for holding off on that was because the model was going to be handled a lot before I added it to the drydock and I knew because of the stresses and weight of the model there would be cracks forming in the putty. So I waited until now so there would be less handling of the model. I also did the same with the Deflector Housing. Because of the way the Secondary hull was molded and put together the two halves did not line-up, so there was a gap on the port side where the pieces would meet. I was originally going to use magnets with this part as well, but decided to seal it permanently and putty up the seam to get rid of the gaps.
There are just a few more touch-ups to do and then the Enterprise will finally be added to the dock. I can then add the Port Side Panel framework and begin the final wiring of the model.
On a side note, there might be another delay with this build as my landlord decided not to pay his mortgage and has gone into foreclosure with our unit so we will be moving to another location. But I will try to get back to this project asap.
I have 11 new pics in the February Updates - 2018 page. Check-em out and I'll get back to you soon. Have a great month everyone.
Mark.

January Updates - 2018

Everyone! My apologies for the delays. I really have been working on my build, it's just that life keeps interfering with my progress. 

As a Note to all visitors, my website will be discontinued around May of 2018. I'm just having too many technical problems with this site builder so I will be posting mainly on the forums that I'm involved with. I'm really sorry about this. So If you want to lift or copy any of the photos on my site in the Member's Gallery Page please feel free to use them as reference photos for your own personal use. I'll will let you know when the exact cut-off date is when the time gets closer. Thanks to all who have visited over the years and thanks for the comments as well.

For my January updates I have cast resin pieces for the outside details of the hanger bay. I had to make transparent pieces so I can make the lighting effects. I will next opaque these pieces and mask small parts of the casting to allow light to pass through them.

I also was asked by my client to put in some different lighting in the saucer sections. So I pulled out all of the fluorescent lighting and ballasts and replaced them with LED light strips. This was a very good idea because the lighting will have a longer lifetime in the model. I then also put some white styrene strips into the saucer section  for the LED lighting to reflect off of. I was going to insert pictures of the corridors onto those walls, but they was not enough depth to them. My client also wanted to see figures walking through some of the corridors giving more scale to the size of the ship. So I did what I originally wanted to do with the interior and that was build some 3D versions of the corridors. I built one master so I could make a mold from it and cast several pieces in clear resin. This would allow the lighting to shine through the light panels which are located at the bottom panels of all of the corridors. I cast the pieces in resin then I masked off all of the panels. I sprayed the front of the pieces in Flat White to help reflect some of the light. I then sprayed over that in Flat Black and made sure there were no light leaks. The next color was a blue/gray for the floors and the side supports. I then hand painted all of the other panels in aluminum. Next I took a strip of styrene and painted it Flat Red then I cut the strip into pieces and used them for the Doors to the crew Quarters. When everything was finished, I put the castings into an oven at 170F for about ten minutes to soften the pieces then I bent them into a curved shape resembling the curve of the outer rim of the saucer. Next I put them into the freezer for about 10 minutes so the resin would then harden again into the new permanent shape. I still had to belt sand the tops and bottoms of the pieces to allow them to fit into the sauce. I then aligned the castings behind the viewports and cemented them in place. Next, I secured the LED strips onto the back sides of the castings, which were never painted, and aligned them to show through the light panels on the corridors. Then I put electrical tape over all of the backs of the corridors so there would not be any light leaks. I also found these sheets of a rubber like substance in a crafts store. I cut long strips of this stuff and put them around the entire edge of the top of the saucer to help keep light from shining through the seam of the saucer halves. It was a lot of work, but it was worth the effort to give the corridors a little bit of depth when you look through the viewports.

I have 16 new photos which can be viewed in the January Updates - 2018 Album on the above bar.

I can now finally seal up the saucer and get ready to permanently add the Enterprise to it's new home in the Dock. Again, thanks for your patience and I apologize for the long wait for this update. Hopefully now I can get this build finished. See you next update.

Mark